THE BROOCH IS BACK

Bracelets, earrings, necklaces, luxury timepieces, cocktail rings, and solitaires all have a place as stand-alone accessories in jewelry categories, but it’s the brooch that has experienced a remarkable resurgence as of late. Transforming from vintage heirlooms into contemporary fashion statements and embraced by both men and women, this revival reflects a broader shift towards expressive, personalized, and cross-gender accessories in modern fashion.

Brooches have a storied history, dating back to the Bronze Age when they served as practical fasteners. Over the centuries, they evolved into ornate symbols of status and sentiment, particularly prominent during the Renaissance and Victorian eras. In the 20th century, brooches became fashionable adornments, with notable revivals in the post-World War II period and then again in the 1980s.

In just the last few years, brooches have reemerged as coveted accessories and have spawned their own channel in both men’s and women’s jewelry lines. Chanel, Tiffany, and Cartier, amongst others, have prominently featured brooches in their collections as fashion and high-jewelry adornments.

Perhaps the most striking development is the brooch’s adoption in men’s fashion. Once considered a feminine accessory, brooches have become a staple on men’s red carpets and runways. At the 2024 Oscars, several actors, including Cillian Murphy and Robert Downey Jr., donned brooches either from their lapel buttonholes or festooned to their breast pockets containing diamonds, pearls, and other fine gemstones.

Pharrell Williams, the men’s creative director for Louis Vuitton, has incorporated brooches into everyday menswear in his most recent collections. They have been normalized as a part of men’s accoutrements by the likes of athletes Travis Kelce and Dwane Wade. Designs range from minimalist metal pins to elaborate gemstone-encrusted pieces.

Likely the most recognizable brooch is the Bird On A Rock, by Tiffany and Co., designed in 1965 by Jean Schlumberger. The whimsical design is a diamond-encrusted bird, sitting atop an oversized colored gemstone (often a kunzite, tourmaline, or topaz). Most famously worn by Audrey Hepburn, the piece was recently reinterpreted by Tiffany in a spectacular 15 ct. yellow diamond for Beyoncé.

Equally as special is the famous Flamingo Brooch, made by Cartier for Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, in 1940. The brooch features a flamboyant flamingo, depicted mid-stride, its pose playful yet elegant. Crafted in platinum, the flamingo’s body is encrusted with white diamonds, while the bird’s legs are stylized rods of yellow gold. The real artistry is in the vivid gemstones that form the bird’s feathers. It is said that the gemstones were reportedly sourced from the House of Windsor’s personal collection, giving the brooch an intimate and bespoke touch. Recorded notes from Cartier’s designers show what appears to be an approximate price to produce the piece at just over GBP17,000 or the equivalent in that era of $68,000 USD. Sotheby’s last sold the brooch at auction in 2011 for $2.8M USD.

Ayzia James from Hamilton Jewelers has felt the popularity of these gems, and they offer a variety of beautifully crafted heirloom pieces in this category—including the Marchak Frog Pin, crafted in the 1950s and featuring a whimsical diamond frog sitting atop a hand-blown lily bloom. “We see the return of the brooch as a style that has transcended the red carpet and become increasingly popular with clients. It’s been fun to watch the evolution of this silhouette from your grandmother’s jewels to a more modern, unisex style. Our H1912 store - which is dedicated to vintage and antique pieces has many wonderful treasures like this”.

The 2025 Met Gala turned out to be a showroom for outer jewels as celebrity after celebrity paraded the red carpet with pins and studs. Sarah Snook affixed several diamond brooches by Rahaminov to her satin lapel tux jacket, while Chance The Rapper, John Krasinski, and John Legend all wore diamond pins.

From birds of prey, baby pins, salamanders, and a simple circle of diamonds, the brooch’s comeback underscores a broader movement towards fashion that celebrates personal expression, heritage, and innovation that can be enjoyed by everyone.

Lilly Hartley is a jewelry writer and editor known for her sharp eye and sharper wit. A contributor to Gilded, Gemline, and Bezel, she covers everything from watch releases to red carpet brooch moments to the forgotten artisans of vintage Paris. Merci!